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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.