Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
